First layer adhesion checklist
If your prints come unstuck mid-print, warp, or fail to lay down a clean first layer, work through this list in order. The fix is almost always one of the first five items.
1. Clean the build plate
Skin oils, dust, and old glue residue are the #1 cause of poor adhesion. Wipe your plate with isopropyl alcohol (90%+) every 3-4 prints. For textured PEI plates, occasionally wash with warm soapy water + dry thoroughly.
Don't touch the print area with bare fingers between cleanings.
2. Re-level the bed
If your printer has auto-bed-leveling (Bambu, Prusa MK4, K1, Kobra 3), run it. If your printer is manual (older Ender, Mini+), check all four corners with paper-drag.
A 0.1mm difference across the bed is enough to cause adhesion problems in the high corner.
3. Z-offset
The single most common adhesion problem: nozzle too high.
Run the first-layer Z-offset calibration in your slicer. The first layer should look slightly squished -- you want lines that touch each other with no gaps, not standing rows.
If you see ridges or gaps, lower your Z-offset by 0.05mm at a time.
4. Bed temperature
Match the filament's recommended bed temp. Common defaults:
- PLA: 60 C
- PETG: 80 C
- ABS / ASA: 100-110 C (in an enclosure)
- TPU: 50 C
Too cold = no adhesion. Too hot = elephant foot and warping.
5. First layer speed
Slow it down. 20-30 mm/s is plenty for the first layer regardless of what the rest of the print is doing. Most slicers have a "First layer speed" setting separate from print speed.
6. Brim or raft
For tall, narrow, or warp-prone prints (ABS, large flat parts), add a brim of 4-8mm. For really stubborn parts, use a raft -- it eats filament but it works.
7. Bed type
The build plate material matters:
- Smooth PEI (most common): great for PLA, PETG. Use only when clean.
- Textured PEI: better grip. Forgiving of slight Z-offset issues.
- Glass: needs glue stick or Magigoo for most filaments.
- Garolite/G10: required for serious nylon work.
If your plate is scratched/scarred in the print area, that's also an adhesion issue -- the surface needs to be uniform.
8. Filament dryness
Wet PETG / nylon / TPU will bubble out of the nozzle and produce a chunky first layer that won't stick. See our drying schedule guide for material-specific dry times.
9. Environment
ABS and ASA warp aggressively in cold rooms. If your printer doesn't have an enclosure, even a cardboard box over it during winter prints can make the difference.
Still stuck?
If you've worked through all 9 and your first layer still won't stick, the issue is probably one of:
- Worn nozzle (replace if it's been over ~500 hours of print time)
- Loose belts (causing layer shift, looks like adhesion fail)
- Damaged/contaminated filament from a bad batch
Open a thread on the printer-specific community for your model.